Mortal Kombat Home

 

PCB ROM Revisions

 

Mortal Kombat JAMMA Plus Button Map

 

Work done

Thoroughly cleaned cabinet inside and out

 New T-Molding

 New Locks and keys

 New Joysticks and buttons

 Custom made marquee

 Installed Cap Kit and flyback

 

Modifications or additions

Multi JAMMA with 6 controller pcb's and IDE cables

2 PC Power Supplies and power extender cables

4 JAMMA + harnesses for the MK's

Shelf with 5 pcb holders

1up + 2up custom switcher pcb

 

Mortal Kombat Quick Reference

 

Flyers

    Mortal Kombat

    Mortal Kombat II

    Mortal Kombat 3

    Ultimate Mortal Kombat

    Mortal Kombat 4 Flyer

  

 

Mortal Kombat Music and Sounds

Mortal Kombat II - Choosing and in game

Mortal Kombat 3 - Choosing and in game

Mortal Kombat 4 - Meat

Its Official...You Suck!

Choose Your Destiny

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MK 1-4] [Where] [JAMMA + ] [Multi-JAMMA] [Organizing] [Switching] [PC Power Supply Artwork]

 

 

Home Brew MK Marquee

Another Shot

Promotional MK 4 Poster

Close up of control panel

The Beast

MK 1 Switched

MK 4 Switched

MK 3 Switched

Multi-Williams Jamma PCB Switched (No longer in collection)

MK 2 Side-art

Building the Multi-JAMMA Cabinet - Power Supplies and MJ Switcher

Shelf with MK 1-4 Powered up from the back

Another shot

Shelf with MK 1-4 Powered up from the Front

Multi-JAMMA Mess

 

Every Mortal Kombat in One Cabinet

   

I took my time while trying to put all this together.  I had some electronics and wiring experience so that helped.  There were no real resources on the Internet for what I was trying to do.  No matter how I tried to orient things inside the cabinet it still is a bit of a rats nest since each JAMMA board varies in size and configuration. I think it turned out fairly well in the end though.

 

 Where to start...

I started out with purchasing a Mortal Kombat II (MK2) with both MK2 and MK3 PCB's off of eBay.  I love the side art from MK 2.  If I couldn't get that cabinet I would have chosen a MK 4 cabinet that also has cool side art.  I found out that I could use Clays Multi-JAMMA Kit to connect them all together.  The only other thing I had to worry about was connecting all the JAMMA + buttons together for all the boards. I later picked up MK 1, 4 and challenger chipset for MK2.  As I found PCB's with higher ROM revisions I resold the earlier PCB versions.  Some early versions had glitches or uneven game play.  For example, MK3 came out without endings or the characters.  Now a days you can find obscure chip sets on eBay pretty easily.

 

JAMMA Plus for the Kick Buttons

I wasnít too knowledgeable about Molex connectors for the JAMMA + and while looking the internet I saw that someone was already selling a kick button harness for the MK extra buttons. Over time I picked up all the harnesses and took some advice from the Real Bob Roberts on the subject.  On his main page you will see a section for "JAMMA plus".   I basically redid my control panel just like Bob said.  I bought all the supplies to do this from Bob.  Heís super easy to deal with and reasonably priced.  The extra buttons were wired to a Molex plug where one side will go to the control panel and the other to the boards.  This will allow you to unplug and remove the control panel for maintenence.

I tried to think of a better way to connect all the other game harnesses together and  attempted to make a Mega MK harness of sorts. After connecting the mega harness I found out that there is wiring issue with the MK 1 board that doesnít mix well with the others MK's.  When I would press the low kick button it would light up all the others buttons.  So I had to create a separate MK 1 harness from the others.  I later wired the MK 2, 3, 4 harnesses together (not pretty) to the Molex plug.  In the end I had one harness to MK 2, 3, 4 and another for MK1.  Not totally an automatic switching solution but the best I could do. 

 

Multi-JAMMA...ah pure genius 

Well, you can build either a MAME or Multi-JAMMA cabinet.  I choose to do the Mult-JAMMA from Clay.  At the time there wasn't any other alternative to connect your games together unless you feel like building your own switching solution.  Overall, I give the Multi-JAMMA a grade of A-  The deduction would be for the instruction manual that can leave one guessing in some sections on how to implement the kit.  I believe there are rip off solutions on the market since making this cabinet.

When you read the directions Clay stresses the ground connection and having a good power supply.  Iíve read in the newsgroups a few problems that other people have had its usually a grounding issue the ground from the power supply to the Multi-JAMMA.  Its a good idea to get a solid power supply as all the JAMMA PCB's will be powered on in the cabinet simultaneously.  There is no way to power the games individually as they are selected using the Multi=JAMMA.

   

PC Power Supplies

Pick out a decent and hefty power supply for your games.  Get one with enough power for at least 4 games.  My first power supply's were terrible and I later had problems with picture and sound.  I ended up getting an Antec True Blue 480W power supply that had really great tolerances and had pretty blue LED's to boot.  This power supply was able to handle 5 JAMMA PCB's on at the same time.   Pick up power supply extenders and long IDE cables while your at it.  I've been able to up to 3 foot IDE cables from various places but you can always find these for cheap on eBay.  Below is a quick explanation between the differences in AT and ATX power supplies.

  • ATX  Power Supply These power supplies will not turn on normally without a motherboard connected to it.  You can power up an ATX power supply by shorting the green wire with any black ground wire.  The green wire is the only green one but its pin 14 or PS On.  This comes in really handy since your not using it in a computer.

  • AT Power Supply Older style power supply that turns on when plugged in so you wont have to mod it like an ATX power supply.

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I wanted to have a few extra +5v, grounds and -5v leads for the cabinet but also wanted to limit the amount of hacked wires.  I've done both these methods but you do what you feel more comfortable with. 

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  • Method 1 (Easiest) Make a harness that will plug into the hard drive power connectors.  The male Molex connector will have +5v and ground.   Bob Roberts has all the connectors you will ever need and even has a nice tutorial on crimping.  I also picked up a pin extractor that will allow you to pop pins out of its Molex housing without destroying it.

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  • Method 2 I took the power supply case apart (usually 4-6 screws) and found the power and ground connections inside.  The manufacturer had the grounds and power inside the power supply sort of get lumped together in mass of solder.  Some power supplies also have a couple free holes in the board for additional wires power and grounds to be attached.  So I soldered ground and power (+5v) on the board and ran them outside the power supply opening nicely. 

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All of the JAMMA pcb's I have tried in the cabinet need a -5v supplied for sound.  The Multi-JAMMA doesn't provide this from the cabinet but your PC power supplies do.  On both AT and ATX power supplies there will be a white wire.  I ended up crimping into the white wire to supply the -5v to the boards.  The -5v was connected to pin 5 of the High-Current / all voltage power connector B on the Mult-JAMMA switchboard. 

 

Placing all the PCB's in the Cabinet

I built a shelf with 4-5 dividers to separate the boards.  You can buy pre-made shelves from Home Depot that will exactly fit a dedicated cabinet.  I decided to make my own shelf a little shorter in length to make it easier to take in and out of the cabinet while building.  I also used adjustable PCB holders to better mount the boards and made another purchase from Bob.  The reason for mounting them this way was to let them air cool as much as possible.  I tried mounting the power supplies under the shelf but that became awkward and impractical.  If I wanted to take the shelf out the weight of the power supplies made it difficult to handle.  So I mounted them on the original particle board that is inside the cabinet. 

 

Adding a switch using your existing buttons

How do you switch from game to game without opening or modding the cabinet?  Fortunately, Tim at Arcade Collecting has already created a circuit that will switch between games.  By pressing the Player 1 and Player 2 start buttons at the same time the circuit will send a signal to Clay's Multi-JAMMA to switch games.  This guy is also another smart guy that has a lot of great info on his site.  So I ordered the parts to make such a thing from an online electronics store and worked on making it.

  

New Artwork

To put the final touches on the cabinet, I decided to make a custom Marquee, CPO and instruction sheet for the game.  Itís amazing what a few hours using Adobe Photoshop and Photo Impact can do.  Photo Impact was used to create some of the lightning effects on the control panel.  I printed them all out on a plotter using high gloss photo paper and had them laminated. 

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